Monday, January 31, 2011

Duche de Longueville


     I often get asked what my favorite cider is. It is a hard question to answer. More often than not, the answer ends up being a bottle that lightens the pocket book more than some would like. This isn't to say a .95 Newton's Folly does not have it's place some times, it does. Usually the higher priced ciders that I like come from across the Atlantic, or are made in very small quantities here to add to the higher price. Probably my two favorite ciders we have are the Oliver's Herefordshire Dry, at $10 or so a bottle, and the EZ Orchards, and nearly $14 a bottle. I also have mentioned that the E. Dupont Pommeau is the best beverage I have ever had, though it is $25 a bottle.
     So, it is gratifying to be able to suggest a bottle that I find to be excellent, and also at a reasonable price. At $6.95, the Duche de Longueville from Normandy is a cider that I found completely by accident. I was not aware of it's existence, but found it on a random trip to Pastaworks. After reeling from the realization that there was a cider in town that I was unaware of,  I bought a bottle before I had time to beat myself up too much. I ran home after buying it, skipping my pre planned errands of buying food and going to Clinton St. Pub to play Ms. PacMan in order to try this find faster.
     At home, I was excited, but frustrated at the foil around the top, I hate foil around the top. It's an unnecessary barrier standing between myself and the hard work of some Frenchman.
     The cider pours with some obvious carbonation, lingering for about 20 seconds, than fading away. The appearance is very clear, and dark straw in color. Caramel, vanilla, oak, and slight brown sugar all come out in the nose. The body has a subtle start, and intense middle, and a nice semi-dry finish. It is not quite as dry as the E. Dupont Brut, a Normandy counterpart. 
     It's one of the best ciders I have tried on many levels. Getting that much flavor, naturally, into a low alcohol cider like that is truly a work of art, science, and passion. Why this isn't $20+ a bottle is beyond me. Now, that being said, it does not have the intense complexity of some of the stuff, previously mentioned, that we carry. The Oliver's will educate you, the EZ Orchards will reward you, and the Pommeau will completely blow your mind.
     A .95 Newton's Folly it is not. A well made, Normandy, delicately complex cider it is.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Perry tasting : looking back

     Last night was our Pardoner's Perry tasting. As with the first tasting, it was a bit of a nerve racking experience for me. While my logic tells me that it is impossible to make everyone happy, I do strive for that in spite of it.
     The owner of Fox Barrel, Bruce Nissen, came in before the tasting. After talking shop, and geeking out over the industry,  he asked if I had anything to sample. That was pressure. Here is a guy who has built up a very successful brand, and been around for awhile. Whether or not you like Fox Barrel or Crispin (same company), you have to respect the staying power, and give dues to a company that can stay afloat for so long relying on, basically, discretionary income.
     I tapped the Perry for him, knowing full well that the Fox Barrel line up is changing to all Pear based products over the next month or so. What was interesting was that it changed quite a bit from when I first tapped it, to when it had a chance to warm up a bit. He enjoyed it, and that made me very happy.
     The Perry was an experiment for me on two levels. One: could I make it? Two: Would anyone like it? Perry is a different beast than a Pear cider, which is apple based cider with pear juice blended in after fermentation. Traditionally Perry pears are used, but they are extremely hard to find here. The trees take a long time to fully mature, and the fruit has little other use than to specifically make Perry, the pears themselves being quite tannic and "challenging" to eat.  
     The pears I used were Asian and Red D'Anjou, both from Oregon. I sulfited a little heavier than I do with the cider we make,  as is common to do with Perrys. When it finished, and had time to mature, it came out quite dry, and I worried that some may find it too much so. I back sweetened with unfiltered fresh juice, then kegged it. Next time, I think I will leave it be, and see what people think of it in it's rawest form.
     The most common comment I got last night was how subtle the nose and flavor was. Compared to a pear cider, it is quite subtle. There are easy ways to "pump up" the flavor, but it would require tactics that I choose not to do. Al in all, I think it was well received, therefore giving me the confidence to make a much bigger batch this coming fall. 
     Thanks to all that came out, I really appreciate it.

Jeff

Friday, January 28, 2011

New Blog

Here is the start of the last avenue of free marketing, the blog. In it, i'll talk about what we are up to, my thoughts on cider we carry, and my observations behind the bar.

Cheers,

Jeff